Row 3: k3 *slip 4 sts knitwise, k1, pass each sl stitch over the knit stitch, k1; rep from *, end k3
Row 4: p3 *(p1, k1, p1, k1, p1) into next stitch, p1; rep from *, end p3
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: slip 4 sts knitwise, k1, pass each sl stitch over the knit stitch *k1, slip 4 sts knitwise, k1, pass each sl stitch over the knit stitch; rep from *
Row 8: (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1) into next stitch *p1, (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1) into next stitch; rep from *
Sample knit with worsted weight yarn, US 8 needles
Depending on how you plan to use the stitch, you may want to add at least two extra stitches to the multiple (one edge stitch for the beginning and end of each row) to make working Rows 1 and 3 easier. I have added the edge stitches in my sample above as shown in the video, however there are no edge stitches represented in the instructions below.
When slipping, slip purlwise
Multiple of 2
Row 1 (rs): *sl 1 wyib, k1, yo, psso both the knit stitch and yo
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k1 *sl 1 wyib, k1, yo, psso both the knit stitch and yo; rep from *, end k1
Sample knit with worsted weight yarn on US 7 needles
Depending on how you plan to use the stitch, you may want to consider adding a few extra stitches for a border to neaten up the edges, and make it easier to work the sl 1-k1-yo-psso at the beginning and end of Rows 1 and 3.
Slipped stitches are slipped purlwise. Pattern begins on right side.
Multiple of 2
Rows 1 and 3: *sl 1, k1, yo, psso both the k1 and yo
You may notice in the video that for the first sl 1-k2tog-psso, I slipped the stitch knitwise, and in the two subsequent repeats, I slipped it purlwise. As you can see from the picture of the sample, there really isn't a difference in appearance based on how the stitch was slipped. Slip the stitch however you prefer for this stitch pattern. Generally, if a pattern does not state which way to slip, you should slip purlwise. When a stitch is slipped purlwise, the stitch doesn't change - meaning the orientation of the stitch remains the same. Slipping knitwise twists the stitch so that the left leg of the stitch is in front of the needle.
Sample knit with worsted weigh yarn on US size 6 needles
Sample knit with bulky weight yarn on US size 17 needles
Another stitch from this French channel - I omitted the edge stitches for mine - you can add two extra stitches if you like, one for each edge . Slip the first stitch and either purl or knit the last; if the next to last stitch you made was a knit then knit the last stitch and if the next to last stitch you made was a purl, purl the last stitch.
Multiple of 5 + 2 (or 5+2+2 if using edge stitches)
Set up rows - not repeated
Row 1: p2 *k3, p2
Row 2: k2 *p3, k2
Row 3: p2 *k3, p2
Row 4: k2 *p3, k2
Row 5: p2 *insert right needle into third stitch down from second stitch on left needle and pull up a loop, k3, insert right needle into same stitch as before and pull up another loop; p2
Sample knit on US Size 6 needles - Patons Classic Wool that I dyed myself
You can space the bells any way you like; in my sample I worked with 18 stitches, and knit the first 6, made a bell, knit 6, made another bell, then knit the last 6.
SKP = Slip next st purlwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
K = Knit
P = Purl
K2tog = Knit 2 together
P2tog = Purl 2 together
Motif is worked on six stitches, on a reverse stocking stitch background
Row 1: (RS) P to bell position, cast on 6 for the bell, P to end
Row 2 and all WS Rows: K background sts, P bell sts
Row 3: P background sts, K bell sts, P to end
Row 5: P background sts, when you reach the bell sts: SKP, K2, K2tog, P to end
Row 7: P background sts, when you reach the bell sts: SKP, K2tog, P to end
Row 9: P background sts, when you reach the bell sts: K2tog, P to end
Row 11: P background sts, when you reach the last bell st, purl it together with next st on left needle, P to end
Row 12: K
Sample knit with Caron Simply Soft on US Size 6 needles
This is similar to the Herringbone Stitch video I did in 2011. This makes a nice thick, dense fabric. Practice makes perfect with this stitch. It isn't hard, but may take a few tries to get comfortable with.
All slipped stitches are slipped purlwise
Yarn is to be held in the back of the work when slipping (wyib)
Worked on an odd number of stitches
Row 1: (WS) *P2tog, leaving sts on left needle. Purl first stitch again, then drop both stitches from left needle* end P1
Row 2: *Slip next stitch wyib, K1. With left needle, lift the slipped stitch as if to pass the slipped stitch over, but knit it before dropping it from the needle* end K1
You can find a great scarf from Purl Bee using this stitch. Click HERE.
Sample knit with Patons Grace cotton yarn on US size 6 needles
Pretty lacy stitch that is very easy to do!
Sl 1-K2tog-PSSO = Slip next stitch purlwise, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knit together
SSK = Slip, Slip, Knit - My preferred way is to slip next stitch knitwise, slip next stitch purlwise and then knit them together. You may instead slip each knitwise, you will get the same result.
Cast on any multiple of 6, +1
Rows 1 and 3: (Wrong Side) K2 *P3, K3*, end with P3, K2
Row 2: P2 *K3, P3*, end with K3, P2
Row 4: K2 *YO, Sl 1-K2tog-PSSO, YO, K3*, end with YO, Sl 1-K2tog-PSSO, YO, K2
Rows 5 and 7: P2 *K3, P3*, end with K3, P2
Row 6: K2 *P3, K3*, end with P3, K2
Row 8: K2tog *YO, K3, YO, Sl 1-K2tog-PSSO*, end with YO, K3, YO, SSK
Repeat these 8 Rows for the pattern
This fabric lays flat, but the edges are pretty ugly. I would add a border, or at the very least, add an extra stitch to each side and slip for neat edges.
If you like the look of cables, but don't like fiddling with cable needles, or haven't really tried cables yet, this lacy stitch can give you the look of cables without the work.
Cast on a multiple of 4 plus 2
Row 1: P2 *K2, P2*
Row 2: K2 *P1, YO, P1, K2*
Row 3: P2 *K3, P2*
Row 4: K2 *P3, K2*
Row 5: P2 *K3, Pass the first K st over the last two K sts, P2*
Sample knit with Royal Bamboo from Plymouth Yarn on US Size 7 square needles
This weeks stitch pattern is short, sweet and to the point. This would make a great spring or summer scarf, or even a shawl or wrap, maybe a beach coverup.
The pattern suggests an extra stitch on each edge for "continuity". My sample was knit with the suggested extra stitch on each edge; the edges were very sloppy for my taste. Depending on what you are knitting, you will probably want to add a more substantial border.
Abbreviations:
YO = Yarn over
K-wise = Insert right needle into next stitch as if to knit, but don't work the stitch, just slip off left needle
PSSO = Pass the slipped stitch over the one just knit
Cast on any even number (plus desired number of edge stitches, which are not included in the instructions below)
*YO, Slip 1 K-wise, K1, PSSO*
That's it. You will repeat this for both sides of the fabric.